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Saturday, 24 May 2014

LionHead Rabbit Forming In Pakistan

LionHead Rabbit Caring Medication and Forming In Pakistan

Basic Dietary Guidelines for a Healthy Lionead Rabbit 
Feeding your Lionhead Rabbit. When feeding a Lionhead rabbits, it is important to remember that they do not need a high level of sugar or protein or a large bowl full of food. When feeding a mixed food the rabbit must eat everything that you give it. If you over feed the rabbit it will only pick out it's favourite bits and leave everything else and will not get a complete diet. Fibre is of the utmost importance to keep your rabbit fit, healthy and using their teeth correctly.
ADULT RABBITS:The basic diet for a healthy adult rabbit should consist of unlimited access to freeze dried grass or/and a good Quality Meadow hay, along with a variety of fresh vegetables (these need to be introduced slowly) and a limited amount of rabbit food---every day about 2.5oz's . Obesity is common in pet rabbits, and excessive amounts of food should be avoided. The first, soft stools that a rabbit passes are eaten again (a process called coprophagia). This is thought to supply the rabbit with most of its Vitamin B requirement,it also contains about  healthy bacteria that the rabbit needs to digest their food. Thus helping to prevent diarrhoea.
BABY RABBITS:Rabbit food about 2.5-3oz's, freeze dried grass or/and hay should be available in unlimited quantities to baby rabbits starting at about three weeks of age.

Hay/ freeze dried grass:is crucial to your rabbit's health as it is the main source of fiber/roughage which aids the digestion, helps prevent g.i. stasis and hairballs and it is helpful in keeping your rabbit's teeth in good shape. Grass hays or freeze dried should be available in unlimited quantities to all rabbits.
Rabbit food, should always be fresh. Don't buy more than three month's supply at a time or they may get stale and lose nutritional value.

Rabbits rely on a stable population of "good" bacteria in their gut, any changes in dietary intake should be introduced gradually to avoid sudden changes in types of bacteria present, as this can result in diarrhoea. Diarrhoea can kill.
My Rabbits are feed on my own mix of Rabbit food, along with Millen Munchy Grass and a Lovely Green Meadow Hay. These can be viewed at Dee Millen Rabbit Accessories.
Millen Rabbit Food:A complementary food for rabbits, to be fed in conjunction with forage such as clean hay or freeze dried grass, fresh water must be available at all times. Oil 4%, Protein 13%, Fibre 10%, Ash 5.6%. VitA 1000iu/kg, Vit D3 1400iu/kg, Vit E 40iu/kg, copper 20mg/kg.
Millen munchy grass:is a freeze dried grass, made from pure grass with only the water taken out. Protein 15%, Fibre 32%, Oil 2%, Prosphours 4g/kg. Very good for making a rabbit use it's back teeth corectly. This is a natural product which may vary in appearance throughout the season, this does not affect the nutritional value
Meadow hay:Last years cut,lovely and green, smells great the bunnies love it,
Water:Clean water must be accessible to rabbits at all times.  A sipper water bottle is the best choice because it cannot be contaminated with bedding, food, feces and urine. Rabbits unfamiliar with a sipper bottle may have to be trained to use it. It is not necessary to add vitamins to the water if the recommended diets are followed. The disadvantages of adding vitamins to the water include; making the water taste disagreeable and promoting bacterial growth. Bio plus can be added to the water when you first bring your pet home, this will help him settle in. Medications can be added to the water  but only under the advice of your vet. If you are not sure whether your bunny is drinking, place a small bowl by the rabbits water bottle. If a rabbit stops drinking, within a couple of days, it will stop eating. So always check that the bottle is working, by flicking the end.
Freezing Water Bottles: I use a product called Vyderphor this is a four in one disinfectant, not only does it help to stop the water from freezing, it also stop the bottles from going green in the summer. It keeps the water fresh and clean. it can also if used stronger be used for cage and aerial disinfecting as well as scrubbing out food dishes and litter trays, i find it very good for getting rid of buck wee from up the walls of cages.
An idea is to have two bottles on the go, one on the cage with a bottle cover on, the other indoors, when you go out to check
bunnies you swap the bottles over, the rabbits will drink almost straight away because the water will be at room temperature,
which they enjoy, and they will soon learn that when it is cold, mummy or daddy will swap bottles.

Dental Care
We all need to take care of our teeth, but that is especially true in the case of pet rabbits. The most common complaint is overgrown molars and enamel spurs that grow from teeth. These spurs generally develop because rabbits aren't eating enough forage and hay. These naturally-abrasive, fibre-rich foods are important because they wear down the teeth Rabbits' teeth grow continuously by an astonishing 2mm every week, or 10-12cm every year, a lack of fibre in the diet means that problems can quickly develop. Left untreated, uneven or insufficiently worn molars can lead to secondary complaints. Even if dental disease has already been diagnosed, the Excel Feeding Plan or correct feeding, can aid the chances of recovery and stop problems deteriorating further.

Vaccinations and Health Care.                                                       
Caring for a rabbit should also include vaccinations against Viral Haemorrhagic Disease (VHD) yearly, Myxomatosis twice yearly, and worming twice yearly with Panacur as well. Neutering of your pets, especially when keeping pairs together is a must, to prevent fighting, un-wanted litters as well as protecting the Female rabbit against the risks of Uterine cancer.
Viral Haemorrhagic Disease is highly contagious and most often fatal. The disease can be transmited by direct contact with infected animals, contaminated food, water, bedding, cages, hutches, etc as well as by insects such as fleas and flies.  Symptoms of Viral Haemorrhagic Disease can include lethargy, collapsing, convulsions, lack of co-ordination, paralysis, breathing difficulties, bloody discharge from the nose, jaundice, weight loss, fever and groaning. Rabbits usually die within a 12-36 of showing symptoms and there is no cure. However, in some cases infected rabbits may show no symptoms at all and may simply appear to drop dead.
Myxomatosis is a severe viral disease and although often associated with wild rabbits, domestic rabbits are also at risk. Myxomatosis can be transmitted by biting insects such as fleas, mosquitoes, mites, etc as well as direct contact with infected rabbits or hares. Myxomatosis is most often fatal and affected rabbits often die within 2 weeks of contracting the disease. The symptoms of the classic form Myxomatosis are runny eyes developing into severe conjunctivitis that results in blindness, swollen genitals, swelling in the head, thick pus discharge from the nose, swollen eyes and lumps on the body. Myxomatosis is most often fatal and as the disease causes severe suffering euthanasia is usually recommended upon diagnosis.  However, pet rabbits can be, and should be, vaccinated against Myxomatosis. Rabbits can be vaccinated as young as 6 weeks of age and any rabbit should be vaccinated against Myxomatosis every six months. Although vaccinated rabbits may still contract Myxomatosis, the disease is much less severe in vaccinated rabbits and it may simply result in the rabbit being a bit unwell or developing a lump on the skin. In vaccinated rabbits Myxomatosis is often treatable and but may still be fatal.
Vaccination against Viral Haemorrhagic Disease must not be done within 2 weeks of vaccination against Myxomatosis.
Wormer for rabbits,is an oral paste. As an aid in the control of Encephalitozoon cuniculi and Intestinal worms in rabbits. Easy to use. Idealy you pet should be treated twice a year. One tube will worm two medium sized rabbits.
Often overlooked, the protozoan Encephalitozoon cuniculi (E. cuniculi) affects up to 50 per cent of all domesticated rabbits and can lead to convulsions, kidney damage, blindness, ataxia and sudden onset head tilt, cataracts, hind limb paralysis, urinary incontinence and sometimes death if left un-treated. Encephalitozoon cuniculi is a single celled parasite
The disease is spread by spores shed in the urine of infected rabbits and is usually ingested in contaminated food. Spores can also be spread transplacentally or inhaled.
Rabbits with E. cuniculi can carry the disease without showing any clinical signs and potentially spread it to other species such as guinea pigs that live with rabbits.
To help control E. cuniculi and intestinal worms in rabbits, Intervet UK has launched Panacur®Rabbit, an easy to administer paste that should be administered daily for nine consecutive days, two times a year. Rabbits should also be dosed during periods of higher risk, such as when the rabbit is acquired, prior to mating and when mixing with others.
Panacur Rabbit should be administered orally by squeezing the paste from the syringe into the side of the mouth.  1 syringe graduation per 2.5 kg bodyweight should be administered daily for 9 consecutive days.  Dosing is recommended 2  times a year and at times of higher risk, such as when the rabbit is acquired, prior to mating and when mixing with other rabbits.

Mites, Lice and Fleas
Many small animals become infected with fleas, lice and mites by their own siblings, other animals or even bedding or its surroundings. When rabbits suffer from lice this can lead to the following symptoms, depending on the severity of the infection: itchiness, hair loss, crusts and sometimes skin ulcers. The nits and eggs that stick to the hair of the rabbit, stand out. You will mostly find them on the back and the side of your rabbit and they indicate poor care and housing. Fleas are generally spread via wild rabbits and they can also bite people. The female flea latches onto rabbits’ ears and will cause itchiness and sometimes allergic reactions. Rabbits can also play host to cat fleas, so look out for these if your rabbits and cats mix. You can treat your pets with Small Animal Insecticidal Spray, or Anti-Parasite Spot On. The living quarters, should also be treated. You can do this by removing all the bedding and using a good disinfectant. The term “scabies” is generally used for mite infections of the skin. Rabbits of all ages can suffer from scabies. The mites live off flakes of skin. Most of the time, they cause itchiness, which causes agitation and the animals start scratching and biting, which may lead to skin infections. Other symptoms are a poor coat, dandruff and eczema. Ear mite infections are far more serious for rabbits. They are common and very contagious. The mite causes serious itchiness, scratching and causes the rabbit to frequently shake and tilt its head. In the longer term, crusts may form in the auditory canal, under which is a bloody, purulent infection. If the infection breaks through to the middle ear and the cerebral membranes, this might lead to problems with balance, convulsions or epilepsy. If your rabbit is suffering from ear mites, you should seek veterinary help. To prevent your rabbit from becoming infected with ear mites, you can keep its ears clean with an Ear Cleaner. You can fight all species of external parasites with Anti Parasite Spot on this is also effective against internal parasites, such as roundworms and whipworms. A pet suffering from worms will lose a lot of weight. Its condition will deteriorate and so will its resistance to other diseases.
Other concerns                                                    
Uterine cancer is a common cause of death in female rabbits (does), which can often spread to other organs before it is diagnosed. This can be prevented by spaying (neutering) if the rabbit is not intended for breeding and is best done when the rabbit is between 5 months and 2 years of age. Neutering also means no un-wanted litters, and no mood swings with pairs of rabbits living together better. I do offer a neutering service, please e-mail me for details. 
Neutering Rabbits
Rabbits become adolescent from 10-12 weeks of age, and at this time they tend to become moody and restless. They start to become more aggressive towards other rabbits and people, and also become less reliable where litter training is concerned. Both males and females may treat a family member of the opposite sex as a surrogate mate, following and circling that person and trying to mate their arms or legs. In male rabbits, courtship can include nipping the surrogate mate.
Neutering is one of the best things you can do for your rabbit. It will ease or illuminate these problems without changing your rabbit’s personality. Your bunny will not realize that anything has changed but the pet will become happier and more relaxed. Neutered rabbits are easier to litter train and their urine and droppings will become less smelly.
Female rabbits should be neutered when they reach 5-6 months old and male bunnies can be neutered as soon as the testicles have descended at around 3-4 months of age. Spaying your female rabbit is extremely important because as many as 85% of adult does die of reproductive cancers if they are not neutered.
It is important to realize that the changes in behavior associated with sexual maturity do not suddenly disappear - female rabbits take a couple of months to generally calm down, and male bunnies may continue to spray for a few months after being neutered. Not all aggression is caused by hormones.
Neutering is particularly important if you have more than one rabbit. It will of course prevent unwanted pregnancy, and make it possible for two rabbits to live happily together. A neutered pair of bunnies can form a strong bond and often spend a lot of time huddling together and grooming each other. Two bunnies who have grown together (even siblings) can suddenly become hostile and very aggressive towards each other. This can result in serious injury to one or both of the rabbits, and them losing the bond they had forever. Neutering both rabbits can prevent this happening, providing it is done early enough. Neutering after the event may help but there is no guarantee that their friendship will be restored.
Many facets of your rabbit’s sexuality will remain post neutering, but in a gentler more subdued form. The extent of the sexual activity really depends on your rabbit’s personality before neutering. Many neutered rabbits retain a certain amount of sexual interest and may continue some courting behavior - a spayed doe is more tolerant of a buck’s advances than an un-spayed doe will be. Some rabbits lose all interest in sexual activity but their need for cuddles and affection, from humans and play mates alike, remains the same.
Pre Operation Care
No preparation is needed prior to operation. Give your rabbit food and water as normal, starvation is not required, as rabbits cannot vomit.
Post Operation Care

Make sure your rabbit is eating, drinking, urinating and defecating within a couple of hours of surgery. If your rabbit does not eat/drink/poo/pee within a few hours contact your vet.
Fly Strike is particularly nasty condition that can affect rabbits with damp or dirty fur. Green Bottles lay their eggs in the fur, where they hatch into larvae and migrate down into the skin. Following their moult the larvae then start to eat their way into the body tissue. Not only does this cause distress and discomfort to the rabbit, it can also cause blood-poisoning, which can in some cases be fatal. Beaphar Fly Guard is an Veterinary preparation containing an insect growth regulator which gives protection against fly strike for up to 3 months. One bottle is sufficient to treat up to 5 rabbits. For the prevention of blowfly strike in pet bunnies. One application lasts 2-3 months. Dirty bottoms in pet rabbits can be greatly reduced with correct feeding, but if your pet suffers with this condition then steps must be taken to protect them from this life threatening problem.
Rabbits can be kept outside or indoors as they make good house pets, being easily litter trained. The decision as to where the rabbit is to be kept will affect the type of Cage or Hutch required for the rabbit

The Bedding your Rabbit will need:
Your rabbit's hutch will be its home so make sure it is really comfortable. For bedding, wood shavings are ideal as they are clean and absorbent, with long haired rabbits  straw  or hay on top of the shavings stops them becoming matted and  helps with insulation. Dusty or old hay or straw can cause irritation to the eyes and nose, so check it before you buy. Good hay should always smell sweet, not musty. When bedded with hay or straw the rabbit will probably eat some with its food but don't worry, this is natural "roughage" and will help with teeth wear. I use a combination of a layer of wood shaving with a good layer of my lovely Lavender straw on the top. The rabbits are given a handfull of  my sweet smelling meadow hay twice a week to chew or play with, my female bunnies that are due to have babies have a thick layer of hay in their nest box. If you house your pet outside, in the cold months you must provide pleanty of hay for them to snuggle in.
Cleaning out you pet.                                                                   

Rabbits should have their bedding changed completely once a week. Rabbits like to use one or more corners as a toilet area so you will need to clean corners out more frequently, perhaps every third day. Also the hutch should be scrubbed thoroughly with  a good disinfectants once a month but make sure your rabbit has somewhere else to go whilst it dries. Rabbits can be trained to use a    litter tray and this will cut down on the amount of bedding that you are using.
Litter training your pet bunny

Some rabbits litter train themselves, however most need a little encouragement from their owners. Rabbits usually learn to urinate in a litter tray but will still scatter a few faeces around. This is normal rabbit behaviour and the droppings are easy to pick up. Rabbits can be litter trained from as soon as you take them home as many of my rabbits are used to using a litter tray. Neutering is very important if your bunny lives in the house. When a rabbit is growing they can becomes very restless and territorial marking with urine and droppings. Even litter trained rabbits will start urinating outside their trays and this may happen every spring if they have not been neutered. Neutering will make your bunny more reliably trained and also reduce or prevent spraying.

It is important to fill your rabbits litter box with an absorbent, non-toxic litter. Most bunnies will try and chew their litter or will ingest some during grooming. If the litter is not absorbent then the rabbit is at risk of urine burn caused by splash back of the urine. Avoid softwood and clumping clay litters that can be harmful to your rabbit. It is advisable to try lots of different litters to see what your rabbit likes best. As most rabbits enjoy rolling and digging in their litter boxes use a soft litter if you bunny is prone to sore hocks or spends a lot of time in the tray. Other things to consider are if your rabbit chews the litter, in this case you are better to use an organic litter, but change frequently to avoid mould. Even so you do not want you bunny to ingest a large amount of litter so if your bunny finds it very tasty, then try another variety. Light weight litter is easier to use but it tends to track more. Also if your rabbit likes to pull the tray around the room it is better to use a heavier litter or secure the tray.
Rabbits, in general are very clean animals - in the wild they only use certain places to relive themselves and don't soil inside their warrens. Pet bunnies also tend to toilet in just one or a few places, and are easy to house train.
To litter train your bunny you will need to start with at least one litter tray. Buy one with low sides for a baby or small rabbit, for a larger rabbit get a big litter tray. You should get your rabbit used to the litter tray from day one. Put a litter tray in the rabbit’s pen or near the bedroom. Put a few pellets in the tray and a piece of urine-soaked tissue in the tray. This will give your rabbit the scent, helping her get the idea. Experiment with different types of litter to find the one your bunny prefers. Many rabbits enjoy digging and rolling in their trays or even sleeping in them. This behaviour should be encouraged because if your rabbit enjoys being in the tray they are  more likely to mark it with their urine and droppings.

Breed profile of the Lionhead, one of the newest rabbit breeds, named for the mane of long hair standing up in a fringe around the head. They are small rabbits, lively and energetic but good-natured.
Size: Small/Medium

Hair Type: Medium

The Lionhead is one of the newest rabbit breeds and has been developed following a genetic mutation that causes the growth of a longer 'mane' of hair around the head. In nature, mutations occur quite frequently, and many breeds result from a mutation that is fixed through a selective breeding programme. The Lionhead gene is the first major mutation in rabbits since the Satin in 1932, and unlike other fur gene mutations it is dominant. This means that a Lionhead rabbit crossed with a normal rabbit will still pass on the 'mane' gene to some offspring, producing more Lionheads. There are differing accounts of where the Lionhead mutation first occured; some sources say it originated in Belgium, as a result of crossing Swiss Fox with Belgian Dwarf rabbits to create a long-coated dwarf rabbit, with the progeny then bred with the Dwarf Angora. Other sources say the mutation simply occured in a litter of pure-bred Dwarf Angoras, with the dominant Lionhead gene spreading through the Dwarf Angora breed in Europe. An undesirable trait in the Dwarf Angora, attempts were made to set the gene in a new breed, 'Téte de Lion'. Whatever its origins, the Lionhead certainly originated in Europe, and the Dwarf Angora played an important role in its early development. Rabbits with the 'mane' gene were imported to Britain and bred with other small wool breeds and Dwarf breeds, to develop the Lionhead breed as we know it today. (The Netherland Dwarf has had a particularly strong influence in establishing the compact body shape and small ears of the breed standard, and also introducing a wide variety of colours). The Lionhead was officially recognised by the British Rabbit Council in 2002, in all known colours and patterns. Lionheads were imported to the United States around 2000, where the breed is under development but not yet recognised by the American Rabbit Breeders Association.
The Lionhead is a small rabbit, weighing around 1.3-1.7kg (3-3¾lbs).
Lionhead rabbits have a compact, medium build with a short, broad and well-rounded body. The head is broad, slightly rounded and close-set on the body, with short, upright ears.
Lionheads have soft, medium length hair on their body, with a 'mane' of soft wool, 5-7cm (2-3inch) long, standing up in a fringe around the head and extending to a 'bib' on the chest.
Breeding Lionheads true to the breed standard is not simple. Rabbits that inherit two dominant genes (MM) will have a double mane; baby double-maned rabbits have normal fur on the head and back extending to a vee shape at the tail, with bare flanks and belly. As they grow, the body develops normal fur, with a thick mane of longer wool right around the head, shoulders and chest and extending in a vee shape behind the neck. Many double-maned Lionheads have excessive fur on the flanks and some can develop tufts on the tips of the ears, these are considered a fault in the show standard. Rabbits inheriting one dominant gene and one recessive gene (Mm) will have a single mane; baby single-maned rabbits have normal fur, as they grow they develop longer wool around the head and ears which often thins by adulthood. Single-maned rabbits are usually hybrids, the result of crossing a double-maned rabbit with a normal rabbit. Crossing two single-maned rabbits results in some (MM) double-maned, some (Mm) single-maned rabbits and some rabbits inheriting two recessive genes (mm) will have normal fur. As double-maned rabbits often develop too much fur, and single-maned rabbits usually lose some of their mane in adulthood, breeding the ideal Lionhead is complex.

All colours found in other breeds are recognised in the UK, commonly White (red or blue-eyed), Black, Blue, Chocolate, Lilac, Siamese Sable, Siamese Smoke Pearl, Sable Point, Tortoiseshell, Agouti, Chestnut, Opal, Lynx, Chinchilla, Squirrel, Tan, Fox, Sable Marten, Smoke Pearl Marten, Silver Marten, Otter, Orange, Fawn, Steel, Butterfly.
The Lionhead breed is not yet recognised in the USA, but is undergoing development in many of the above colours, including Broken pattern.
Lionheads are generally good-natured rabbits, although lively and often timid. Gentleness and understanding are needed to win their trust and bring out the best in their personality. They can be quite outgoing and sociable and will thrive on attention. They are usually energetic, active and playful, and despite their small size, need plenty of space to run and play.
Lionheads are not generally recommended with children as they need experienced handling. They tend to be easily frightened and may become aggressive.
Some Lionheads may have a more skittish, or even aggressive nature. The Lionhead is a recent breed and still under development in many countries, temperament can vary quite a bit depending on the breeds used to develop each line.
Special Requirements
Lionhead rabbits may be more prone than other breeds to dental disease, a potentially fatal condition that is often inherited.
Choose a rabbit with a good temperament and a low risk of hereditary teeth problems, from a reputable breeder or rescue centre.
Lionheads need some additional grooming, the longer 'wool' of the mane needs to be combed once a week to prevent matting, daily grooming is necessary during moult.
Lionheads are more at risk of developing hairballs, which can cause potentially fatal digestive problems.
- See more at:

The LIONHEAD RABBIT tends to be very friendly, enjoying human contact.
They are easy to handle and if brought into the home at a young age the
become very used to human contact and will make excellent pets.

They are healthy overall as a breed and most are easy keepers. They do tend
toward the dirty bottoms found on baby lops and other breeds with slightly long
coats, due to their fur being a longer rollback coat much like the lop breeds.
The bunnies with manes (not all purebreds will necessarily have manes *
see the explanation about the mane gene ) will begin to show the mane by
three weeks old. If they do not carry two genes for the mane they are born
looking like any other bunny until that age when the mane begins to bloom.

Bunnies that have 2 genes for the mane will look very different from a normal
fured bunny. They have extensive areas that have NO fur or hair coloring at all
at birth. These areas are very slow to develop hair and the fur in those areas
will lag behind in length often until the baby is over a month old.
Many carry wool all over their bodies at first, with most starting to shed it out at about 6-7 weeks, until only a skirt remains. In most young Lionheads, somewhere near 10 weeks this wool will also begin to disappear and should be gone by 16 weeks of age. Some bunnies are born with so much wool on their bodies that they resemble a baby Angora. Some Lionheads never shed out the underwool in the coat to degree that will allow them to shown under the American Standard. Some Lionhead Rabbits carry the wool/mane down their face between their eyes (which is very undesirable under the Purposed Working Standard), and they all seem to have wool on their cheeks (which is allowed under the Purposed Working Standard.) The mane seems to be a simple dominate gene with 100% of the offspring from maned rabbits (carrying two mane gene -2XM) bred with non-maned rabbits having a mane. These offspring are referred to as F1 generation crosses. It is impossible to tell the difference between purebred and hybrid bunnies as both type- those carrying heavy angora type wool all over their bodies or those with manes only – occur in both purebred and hybrid litters, and often as siblings.

The quality of mane between Lionhead Rabbits varies a great deal.
At the present time it makes no difference if they are purebred or crossbred. Some will have very dense manes, while others will carry a very long mane but it very thin in density. Some adults are loosing all but a wispy mane. Some adults loose their mane when they molt but then grow them back.

Most adult doe's carry less mane than bucks, simply because so much is plucked out by the rabbit herself when she
kindles. The rest of the coat on a Lionhead Rabbit is a normal rollback fur as soon as the bunny fuzz drops out. The
body coat is not like that of a Jersey Wooly or an American Fuzzy Lop, which have longer wool/hair all over their adult
LIONHEAD RABBITS do require some grooming, but not nearly as much as other wool breeds due to the lack of wool
on the body.
Here are some grooming suggestions based on their age:

Babies: Baby Lionheads tend to have longer fur in the vent area, similar to some
lop-eared breeds. Therefore they tend to paste up more than other breeds. It is important
to check babies that are 2-5 weeks old on a regular basis to prevent infection due to pasting
up. If they do paste up, wash the vent area by putting under a light stream of lukewarm water
until all material can be loosened and removed. You may also want to put some antibioticointment in the area.

Young rabbits (2-4 months old) : Young Lionhead Rabbits have a little extra fur/wool on their bodies, particularly on the lower hindquarters area. This body wool will
molt out by about 4 months old, and it is important to make sure they have adequate fiber
in their dies as they molt this out to prevent wool block. Regular grooming at this stage is
important so the Lionhead doesn't ingest to much of their own shedding wool causing a
wood block in the intestines

Older rabbits (4 months and up) : If your Lionhead Rabbit carries excess
wool/fur on their body, particularly on the lower hindquarters area, most likely it is a
double mane gene Lionhead. These require you to maintain extra fiber in their diet to
prevent wool block. Some people feel the double mane gene Lionhead Rabbit will not
be showable as adults due to the excess fur/wool, regardless they play an importantroll in breeding.
Grooming the mane (all ages); The Lionhead Rabbit mane can become felted similar to other wooled breeds,
so it needs to be carefully brushed out periodically. Since the wool of the mane is similar to the English Angora wool,
it can be pulled out if combed or brushed too vigorously, so it is important to be both patient and gentle.
BREEDING LIONHEAD RABBITSLIONHEAD RABBITS seem to be very easy to breed and most do not appear to have any difficulty kindling. Doe's have about 3-9 kits per litter (Litter size seems to be tied to overall size of the doe with small does under 3 pounds having smaller litters). Most are very good mothers with abundant milk supplies.
If you plan on breeding your Lionhead Rabbit, there is helpful information within the Genetics Section of this website. Here you will learn how to breed for the colors you want, and a more in depth look at how the mane gene works.
-- How do I know if I have Single or Double Maned Lionhead Offspring? --
The picture on the left are ofsingle mane babies. They look like no-mane babies until they start to develop their manes. The picture on the right is a double mane baby. Note the flanks are bald in a v-shaped area. This is where their wool will grow in later. They are very easy to recognize a few days after birth. Once they start to develope their manes, this look will no longer exist and it will be difficult to tell single mane from double. If you have a mixed litter - make sure to mark your babies in some fashion by around 3 weeks or so. I paint the double mane toenails with bright red - or mark an ear with a permanent marker.
Double + Double = 100% double maned offspring

Single + Single = 50% single maned offspring
, 25% double, 25% no mane
Double + Single = 50% double mane, 50% single maned offspring
Double + No Mane = 100% single maned offspring
Single + No Mane = 50% single mane, 50% no mane offspring
Remember these are just common percentages. The breed is too new to say that is exactly what you will get. It's all part of the fun on working with a developing breed.

-- What colors will I get?--
What color babies will I get from my parents? Colors are fun to figure out. Based on each parents pedigree you can figure the likely color of your litters. There will inevitably be some 'unknowns' in your genotype so you may get surprise colors. This is all part of the fun when breeding rabbits AND these new colors help you fill in the unknowns in your parent's genetics.

-- Double vs Single Mane Lionheads--
Double mane is much thicker and goes up to and around the shoulders (looks like a lion's mane) as well as a wool 'skirt' along the belly and hindquarters. They will shed most of the 'skirt' around 6 months. The single mane is around the head and ears (looks like a sunflower) and their 'skirt' is typically less than on a double. Double manes frequently have too much wool when they grow into adults - this can show up as wool on the face ears and flanks. But single manes typically lose much of their manes by the time they are adults. So developing your herd usually will mean you work with both for the best results.

-- What is a Hybrid? (F) and why would I want one?--
An (F) Hybrid line is produced by breeding a purebred Lionhead with another type of rabbit. For instance Lionheads are commonly bred with a Netherland to produce F1 offspring. Then you would breed an F1 back to a purebred Lionhead or another breed or even another F1 in order to produce an F2. (Note: if you breed an F1 to an F2 the offspring will still be F2) You breed one more time and you have an F3. Here's the goal:) When you breed your F3 back to a pure Lionhead.....the offspring is a new purebred line of Lionheads. Why would you do this?? It is way to adjust your bodytypes. For instance, you would use good Netherland stock to reduce the ear size and body size of your Lionheads. This is used to develop the Lionheads closer to the desired standard and colors while still keeping the Lionhead line pure and with the mane gene. Why would you purchase one? Hybrids are typically cheaper than purebred Lionheads but they still carry the mane gene. Depending on what F line you get, you can develop your own herd of Lionheads without purchasing a whole group of purebreds. Also, if the traits have bred in correctly you will end up with smaller Lionheads with smaller ears and better traits all around. Often the hybrids can have better body types that a purebred. There is no problem showing hybrids in Lionhead shows. F1, F2, F3 and PB Lionheads are all showable as long as they meet the working standard.

-- What is the show status of the Lionhead breed?--
See the Showing Lionheads section

-- What personality do Lionheads have?--
Lionheads are more similar to Netherland's than Hollands in personality. Overall they are more skittish than the 'laid back' breeds. Of course, handling them at a young age greatly affects their personality and friendliness. They typically will grow to 3.5-4.5 lbs. Like the long haired breeds - Lionheads are susceptible to 'wool block' and you will need to take preventative measures to ensure their health. Plenty of Timothy hay...and I use a regular supply of papaya.

-- What are the Vienna (Sport), Harlequin and Dilute genes?--
The Vienna gene (sometimes called the Sport gene) can cause a white stripe on the rabbits body. Typically it runs down the face. It can also show up as different degrees of white markings in the rabbit's coat, other mismarks and white toenails in your dilutes. Some people want the gene, and others do not. This gene (v) can be present if there are blue eyed whites in the rabbit's line. It is something that should be noted to the person purchasing the rabbit in case they do not want the gene present.
Harlequin is the 'solid' version of broken tri-color. The Harlequin gene is prevalent within the Lionheads imported into the USA. This color is fine if that is what you want. But like the BEW it can really mess up your colors if you're trying to work with regular solids. If you find you have it please note it and try to control it while you work on your herd.
Please always let your buyer know if your rabbit may be a harli carrier. If you do have it, do not breed to any colors not ee. This way you will be able to see the carriers. According to Gail Gibbons (holder of the 2nd certificate of presentation) if you want the presentation/showable colors you must breed out ej (Harlequin). For more on the specific color genetics visit her site
The Dilute gene is needed to produce 'blue' offspring and other 'blue' colors. This is another matter of preference and should be noted to the purchaser. Depending on your breeding program you'll need to decide if you want to work on the dilute colors. If not, it is best to avoid this gene in order to properly develop your other colors.

-- What is a Teddy/Wooly Lionhead?--
A Teddy or Wooly is a Lionhead with a very active wool gene. Meaning that they are usually more wooly than a regular Lionhead. They are usually double maned and have wool over their whole body. They can also have wool on their face and ears. This is usually not shed even when they are Seniors. They are not showable but can add wool to your herd. For instance if you have a rabbit which doesn't have much of a mane but has a great body type - you can use your Teddy to create better maned babies with nice bodies.

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